Size and fit are different
Size tells you whether a garment goes on; fit describes how it sits on your body once it's on. Even within the same medium, some pieces have wide shoulders, some fall straight through the body and some are shaped at the waist, so a garment can look awkward even when the labeled size is right. When choosing clothes, look less at the number and more at where the shoulder seam lands, where the hem ends and how much room there is between you and the fabric. Getting used to these three alone cuts down on mistakes considerably.
Why the shoulder line is the reference
On jackets, shirts and coats with a shoulder seam, that seam should sit around the end of your shoulder bone. If it drops well down the arm, the garment looks too big; if it sits further in, it pulls when you move your arms. Sleeve length and trouser hems are relatively easy to alter, but shoulders are structurally complex and difficult or expensive to change. So if several things are slightly off, choose the one with the right shoulders and tailor the rest. Garments designed with dropped shoulders are the exception.
Length changes your proportions
The same person can look longer or shorter in the leg depending on where clothes end, because a hemline becomes a horizontal line across the body. When judging length, check these points.
- Tops: ending between the waist and mid-hip is a safe choice
- Sleeves: lightly covering the wrist bone with arms at your sides
- Trousers: hems that don't drag on the ground when wearing shoes
- Coats: above, at or below the knee depending on your height and shoes
Where to look for each concern
There's no correct body shape, but if a certain area bothers you, you can decide what to adjust. The points below are only general starting points; decide by actually trying things on.
- Broad shoulders: clean shoulder lines and V-necks rather than heavy pads or shoulder details
- Narrow shoulders: an exact shoulder fit, and avoid very deep necklines
- Long torso: slightly shorter tops or a front tuck to raise the waistline
- Concerned about your stomach: pieces that fall straight rather than cling, and avoid very short tops
- Slim build: fitted rather than oversized pieces, adding fabrics with some thickness
Why big clothes don't hide anything
When you're self-conscious, it's tempting to hide under loose clothes, but clothes that are far too big make your whole body look larger. The fabric falls straight from the widest part of your body, carrying that width all the way up and down. Even with a relaxed piece, fitting at least one area, such as the shoulders, sleeves or length, keeps you looking neat. On the other hand, clothes that are too tight pull into creases and restrict movement. Moderate ease, enough to slip a few fingers between you and the fabric, works for most body types.
Checklist for trying things on
Many garments look fine when you stand still in front of the fitting room mirror but reveal problems once you move. Before buying, go through the movements you make in daily life.
- Reach your arms forward and overhead — does it pull across the back or underarms?
- Sit down — does the waist or thigh dig in, or do buttons gape?
- Button it up — do horizontal pull lines appear?
- Check the side and back views with a second mirror or a photo
Getting the fit right online
When shopping online and you can't try things on, the measurement chart is your only clue. Lay a garment that fits you well flat on the floor and measure the shoulder width, chest width, total length, sleeve length and waist width; then you can compare numbers with the seller's chart. Sellers measure in slightly different places, so read their measuring guide too. Model photos only mean something when you also check the model's height and the size they're wearing. Exchange and return terms vary by seller, so check them before ordering.
What tailoring can and can't fix
A garment that almost fits can look much better after one trip to a tailor. Not everything is easy to change, though, so it helps to know what can be altered before you buy. Ask a tailor directly about what's possible and what it costs.
- Relatively easy: trouser hems, sleeve length, taking in the waist
- Moderate: taking in the side seams, narrowing trouser legs
- Difficult: shoulder width, letting a garment out significantly, sleeves that are far too short
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